The Belt Buckle
Quality Studded Belts - Part 3
The buckle on a studded belt can say a lot about the quality of the product as a whole as it is often the single most expensive part of a belt to produce. It is at the front and centre of the item and is often an after-thought for many low end belt manufacturers due to the cost of their manufacture. Buckles come in all shapes and sizes depending on the type of belt, but the prong buckle is the main buckle used for studded belts. We will discuss three main types of studded belt buckles, prong, frame and plate buckles, as well as a variation that is very popular in the alternative fashion scene.
Function
Buckles are the unsung heroes of a belt and too often take second place. Without a buckle or fastening device a belt is simply a piece of material hanging around your waist that performs no function and has no job. A good belt buckle needs to be strong and long lasting with a solid and precise fastening mechanism matched to the width of the belt. The buckle should hold the belt securely at the required belt eyelet without coming loose, either using a hook or a prong.
Design
Because it is at the very front and centre of your outfit it also needs to have a character and design that compliments the belt is attached to. Most cheap belt manufacturers simply use a standard buckle readily available from the belt factory, therefore many belts have the same non-descript plain buckle. Producing a branded or designed buckle involves paying for steel moulds to made (die casts) into which metal is injected to create the bespoke design. This has a significant up-front cost so only quality belt brands go to this extra expense rather than using standard unbranded buckles already produced by the belt factory.
Replacement
Many belt manufacturers stitch the buckle to their belt, so if the buckle were to fail the belt becomes useless and must be thrown away. A good belt will be designed to allow a buckle to be changed to allow the belt to be personalised or to be replaced in the event of a buckle failure. Changing the buckle is the simplest way to personalise your belt to add your own style to the design and is often over-looked by belt manufacturers.
Prong Buckle
The prong buckle, sometimes called a frame buckle, is the most common and widely used type of belt buckle and has been in use since humans invented belts! It is made using an outer visible frame that can be square, rectangle or rounded, and is what can be seen when the belt is fastened. The frame is fixed to the belt using a hidden bar and that holds the prong (or multiple prongs) which feeds through an eyelet of the belt to secure it in place. The frame is an important visual part of a belt with a prong buckle and will usually be made of a contrasting metal, or the matching material as the studs on a studded belt. Most cheap belts have a plain unbranded prong buckle, functional but doesn’t really say a lot.
Box Frame Buckle
The box frame buckle is similar to the prong buckle and is fastened in the same way, however the frame extends either side of the securing bar. This allows for more of the frame to be visible making more of a statement. The belt is fed through one side of the buckle, over the bar and prong, then back through the buckle. These are also often standard plain buckles that are made by the belt manufacturer to reduce the price and look like many other available belts.
Plate Buckle
A plate buckle is an almost flat piece of metal that has a loop at the back to attach it to the belt and a hook that is put through an eyelet of the belt to fasten it. Because the plate buckle is positioned in front of the belt it is far more visible than a prong belt and has a larger design area. Sometimes a belt may come with a more generic or plain plate buckle while ornate plate buckles are often sold as a seperate accessory so can only be fitted to on belts that are designed for replaceable buckles. They sit in front of the belt when it is fastened and are a real statement piece allowing for many different designs and styles.
Stash Buckle
A stash buckle often looks like a plate buckle but is has a mechanism which opens up to reveal a hidden compartment used for storing a small item like a key or money. These operate in the same way as a plate buckle with a fastening hook at the back and have a large area for adding a design. These are nearly always sold as a belt accessory and can only be put on a belt designed to allow the buckle to be replaced.
Summary
In summary, when looking for your next studded belt, you should always pay particular attention the buckle as this will give you a clue to the quality of the whole item. If the buckle is plain with no branding that you may find that it is the same buckle that can be found on other belts, hinting that the belt has been made with the cheapest available accessories. If the buckle has got specific branding then the manufacturer has gone to the expense of creating their own moulds, hinting that they have ensured their belts are unique and of better quality. If you are also considering adding your own style to the belt by changing the buckle, or if you want to add extra functionality to your belt by adding a stash buckle, make sure the belt has been designed to allow replacement buckles.
Next time we will discuss the other features and furniture of a studded belt, the eyelets, keeper, billet and of course the studs themselves.